Archive for the 'Food / Cooking' Category

Techniques Cookbook - Think Like a Chef

Tuesday, March 15th, 2005
Product Image: Think Like a Chef
My rating: 5 out of 5

So many cookbooks, so little time. I have a thing for great cookbooks, and this one is just about the cream of the crop. Beautifully photographed, short and to the point. It’s not a book about recipes, or tools, or ingredients. It’s about techniques. The title says it all - “think like a chef”. So simple. This is the book that got me really started with serious fine cooking. It’s easy to follow and it has great advice, illustrated with examples (they’re not really “recipes”, and that’s the point).

Tom Colicchio’s passion for “simple fine cooking” is evident throughout (and also in his restaurants). He goes through all of the basic techniques of fine cooking, and it’s obvious that he also doesn’t want to do any more work than he has to, so he’s cut out a number of extraneous steps for a more efficient process. You’re left feeling that there’s still a lot of work in there, but the things that remain are well worth it, and he explains why you still have to do those things to get the results you want.

The perfect example is roast chicken. There are a hundred ways to roast chicken, but I still find his the easiest (even though it sounds difficult) and also the most rewarding. While others struggle to deal with overcooked breasts or undercooked thighs, he turns the whole process on its side (literally), and sears the sides of the bird in a pan on the stovetop before throwing the whole thing into the oven to finish. There’s one more step - browning on the stove - but the tradeoff is a perfectly cooked bird, and it’s a lot easier to clean a 10″ frypan than a huge roasting pan with a rack.

Buy Think Like a Chef from Amazon.

The illustrations below show this technique in action (also illustrating the basting spoon/spout ladle reviewed for Kevin Kelly’s Cool Tools):

Wash bird, trim wing tips.
Trim Wings

Collect prep ingredients, preheat oven to 375F.
Collect Prep

Stuff and truss bird, coat with salt and pepper, then sear one side on the stovetop.
Sear Side 1

Sear other side.
Sear Side 2

Turn chicken on its back, and put the whole pan into the oven.
Into the Oven

After 30 minutes, add butter, and baste.
Add Butter and Baste 1
Add Butter and Baste 2

Baste again every 15 minutes until done.
Baste Again

Remove when chicken is 155F internally.
Done! (but not finished)

Cover with foil to rest (internal temp will rise 5-10 degrees).
Cover and rest

Carve and eat, or let cool and refrigerate whole and pick.

I must admit - I got a little distracted by the photography in making the demo bird for this, and overcooked it a little. That’s another great thing about this technique - you can overcook it, and it will still be delicious, moist, and tender.

Buy Think Like a Chef from Amazon.

Modern Wine Glasses - Riedel O

Monday, March 14th, 2005
Product Image: Riedel O Wine Tumblers
My rating: 5 out of 5

Riedel is famous for having introduced glasses specifically shaped for particular kinds of wine. Now, they’ve introduced a series of wine tumblers, that are just the bowl without the stem. They are perfect for that glass you’re supposed to have every day. They’re easy to wash, less prone to spillage, and a pleasure to hold and drink out of. They come in sets of two.

I’ve tried the Cabernet / Merlot (good general), the Syrah / Shiraz (large tall bowl), and the Chardonnay / Viognier (very cute! - the scale of the images below is very off):

(Main link and mage above are for the cabernet / merlot glasses. Click the image to buy from Amazon.)

Syrah / Shiraz Chardonnay / Viognier

There are others, also available at Amazon.